The Lap of Luxury...

So this weekend was our first NYU sponsored "excursion," complete with embarrassingly large tour bus and of course, Christa (our ever chipper student activities director) who likes to treat us as if we are a group of middle schoolers. But that aside, the trip was a really awesome all expenses paid semi-relaxing weekend at the beach. We left Accra at around 6:30 a.m. and just barely made it to Elimina without being made Popsicles by the very intense air conditioning system. From there we headed to the famous Elimina Castle, which was once a fort used in the trans-Atlantic slave trade. The castle was built in the 1400's by the Portuguese and is still pretty well in tact. The tour was a bit depressing though, we had to walk through the slave cells which were cramped and unventilated. Then we walked down through the passage of no return to the little door where the slaves were taken out to the waiting ships (oftentimes after enduring a terrible 2 to 3 months in the prisons). The whole thing was heart wrenching and it was just awful listening to how terrible the conditions were and how mean the Portuguese and Dutch were. And on top of all the associated sadness, the heat was so unbearable that one girl fainted right in the middle of the presentation and several other people got very sick. All in all, a rather somber morning (though a very informative one).

On a lighter note, after Elimina Castle we drove to a small restaurant on stilts above a crocodile pond. At first we didn't see any crocodiles but when one of the wait staff got out a can of meat a huge one climbed over the bank. The lady then proceeded to feed it bits of guts off a stick, I'll upload the picture I got of it eating! Then it just hung out very creepily with its eyes above the water line looking oh so suspicious. We then headed to Kokum National Park, a certified rain forest (we had a big debate whether or not it was one) near the hills. There, we got to hike up a pretty excruciating path (I sweat out close to 3 pounds probably) but the finale was definitely worth it. We got to walk across these thin rope bridges 100 feet in the air, where you were basically walking along the tops of the trees. The view was amazing, though slightly scary because the bridges were made of rope and therefore swung a lot when 10 people walked on them. Everyone made it across without too much trouble, though it did start to rain (that's when we agreed it was probably a rain forest).

By this time it was late afternoon so we got to head back to our hotel, Coconut Groove, and see our rooms. I know Ghana is a lot cheaper than the US and everything, but even still our hotel was pretty swanky. We had huge rooms with mini bars and turn down service (including chocolates) and there was a great pool right at the edge of the beach. There was also a delicious buffet dinner followed by a huge bonfire and traditional palm wine (I don't really recommend it, it kind of tasted like cleaning solution and rubbing alcohol). Then we all just hung out on the rocks overlooking the waves and swam in the pool.

In the morning we had to be up pretty early (well... 9:30) as the bus was taking several of us to a batik making session. Batik is a type of cloth, very common throughout Africa I think, that kind of resembles tie dye. The process was really labor intensive but very entertaining. We had to cut out our own designs on big pieces of foam to make stamps, then dipped the stamps in boiling wax and made designs on a piece of cloth. Once the whole cloth was stamped we were able to dye it (I chose yellow so that my numerous mistakes would be less visible). We ran out of time so most people stopped there, but the rest of the process involves soaking the cloth in boiling water to get the wax off and then drying it again and picking off any left over wax. Some people made some really beautiful cloth, mine was so-so but I can definitely live with it.

By that time we were already running really late so we had to hurry and check out and then get back on the bus for the 3 hour ride home. Unfortunately we made several annoying stops (including a stop to buy pineapples and roasted grass cutter, a rat of pretty giant proportions that is considered a delicacy here) so it took us even longer to get home then we anticipated. When we finally got home all of us were so exhausted that most of us fell asleep, though we woke up to steal the internet from one of the other houses (the internet in my house has been down since Wednesday, which is more annoying then i thought).

It took me a good week to post this only because the internet has still been out and I spent a very long day trying to book my plane ticket for spring break. We have decided upon South Africa and Namibia! I'll try put up a post of just pictures from last weekend right after this.

Busy Busy Weekends

I have never before had such hectic weekends, but now I would not trade it for anything. Since it has been a while since I last wrote anything this might be a long one (I apologize). On Friday night our program had its semi-annual social mixer (ha!) which was really just a gathering at my dorm between NYU students and Ghanaian students from the University of Legon and Ashesi. Unfortunately it had to rain for the first time since we've been here, so we had to scramble and move all the speakers and food inside. But the rain was amazing, it fell in sheets for a good 20 minutes and then the lightening came, huge cracks that you could see outlined in the sky. They looked purple and terrifying but it was awesome to watch. After it cleared up we were able to resume the mixer (which was really just plain awkward at first...). Luckily it became more enjoyable as the night wore on, though the male students from the universities are very interested in getting as many girls phone numbers as they can, so sometimes you just have to pretend you haven't bought a phone yet. Though that can lead to a whole other set of problems, including offers to buy a phone or a Sim card, or requests for your email. But awkwardness aside it was quite fun and I was able to maneuver my way carefully around the exchanging of numbers.

On Saturday 16 of us took a huge bus to a small beach town called Winneba. The town was eerily reminiscent of the suburban east coast. In Accra, and especially Labonne where I live, all the houses have 8 foot fences with electrical wire or sharp spikes at the top. And almost every house as a 24 hour guard. However, in Winneba there were no fences, just green grass and cute brick ranch houses. The place did seem really deserted though, we could never find a taxi and it was even harder finding people to give us directions. The hotel we stayed at was near the beach on a small lagoon (Lagoon Lodge, quite the appropriate name) though because it was all booked we had to stay in the "Coconut Guest House". Sounds nice I know, but it was really just a building that resembled a barrack with little rooms and a communal bathroom. But we can't complain because we only spent 6 cedis. The walk to the beach was pretty interesting, we had to follow a dirt path for about 20 minutes through some pretty long grass that reminded me of Jurassic park. But when we finally made it to the beach it was totally worth it. This beach was one of those postcard beaches, with palm trees in the sand almost to the water, shells washed up along shore, and not a single person around except the fishermen way off in the distance. The water was bright blue and warm and we swam for a long time. However, when I finally decided to take a nap in the sun I ended up getting sun burned (though not as bad as everyone else). At night we walked into the outskirts of the tiny town and had drinks at a small outdoor bar. Then we all walked back to the beach (which was really difficult since the only light we had was our cell phones) and sat and listened to the surf and watched for shooting stars. In the morning we all headed back to the town to catch the bus and then endured a very very hot hour and a half bus ride. At that point the only thing keeping us going was the prospect of buying fanice, this delicious invention that is frozen ice cream in a bag. When we finally get home everyone was exhausted and at night we were too tired to watch the Superbowl, though a bunch of people went to the American bar (which I heard as the only good Mexican food in Accra).

On Monday I went to my first full day of community service, at New Horizons Special School. I played games with the kids and even came in last in one of the races (only because my shoe fell off). Then I observed each classroom and got to do one on one activities with the kids. In the afternoon a bunch of us went to the Accra Mall (which has, of all things, a Shop Rite) to get groceries. It also has a movie theater, a food court, and a bizarre store called GAME that is like a mini Target. We really couldn't figure out what it was but it had really cheap cereal and wine and also sold appliances and car parts. At night we all went out for this guy Danny's birthday. The place we went was a cute little bar right on the beach with delicious skewers (by the end of the night we had ordered 30 haha). Going out is so much more relaxing here than in New York, you always end up sitting on the beach or on some rooftop where you can see stars and bats and hear crickets. It also helps that drinks here are phenomenally cheaper than they are in NYC, I don't know how I will be able to go back and ever eat out at an actual restaurant without balking at the price...

Shopping is Stressful...

Yesterday several of us braved the outdoor market in central Accra known as Makola... and it was pretty intense. Although it is only a 15 minute tro tro ride away, the walk from Tema station to where the market actually starts is crowded with hundreds of people selling stuff (a market surrounding a market...). When we finally found our way to what looked like the actual market we took a good 15 minute detour around the edge that forced us to walk in the fish section. Because it gets so hot here all the fish are salted and dried so they look very creepy (and I hate to be rude but they also look pretty nasty). There were also a lot of dried snails the size of my hand, and one of the girls I was with swears she saw bats, which are considered a delicacy here.

Our reason for going to the market was to buy fabric, and when we finally made it to the fabric section we were a bit overwhelmed. Since all the stalls are so close together and everyone is selling the same thing the vendors can be a bit... pushy. Several women grabbed us and forced us into their stall and if you say that you like a certain fabric or reach out to unfold it they will take it down and start cutting it for you. Bargaining is also something I find very difficult and thus I try to avoid it whenever I can. But it is part of the culture so I have to learn to be more stubborn. We have to bargain for a lot of stuff here, especially taxi rides because the drivers will usually try to charge us double. I always feel bad paying anything less than 2 cedi though, because I take the subway in New York shorter distances for 2 dollars.

But bargaining woes aside, I did manage to get 2 really nice fabrics (I bought 6 yards with another girl so that we could get a better price). There are two women here that sew, all you have to do is give them a picture or an idea of what you want and it will usually only cost 5 cedi. So far I have had two skirts made, and including fabric and labor they only cost about 12 cedi! So see dad I will save you lots of money!

Today was my first day at my community service location. I am going to be working as an aide at a school for students with autism. We had a tour and got to meet some of the students and I think it will be a lot of fun. The school is called New Horizons and they train the students in basket weaving and fabric printing so that they can sell their products and make a profit. We walked into the store where they have all the cloth and art projects and they were absolutely amazing! And all the students and teachers were extremely nice, they had several American teachers (one guy was from Seattle) and they said they were used to having NYU kids come and really participate in helping the students.

I always feel as if I write too much... so I will try and stop here. Tonight we are having a social mixer with students from Ashesi University and the University of Ghana, Legon. I'm excited for the free snacks ad music. Then I think people are heading to another beach for the weekend, which sounds like a lot of fun! Hopefully one of these weekends I will be able to go to Togo or Cote d'Ivoire!

Class, Class, Class...

Today was my second week of classes, and I still don't feel like I am in school. We went on a field trip for my History of the Atlantic Slave Trade class (which has been shortened to just "slaves") and though our teacher is hilarious and fond of saying weird movie phrases like "cool runnings!" I could barely keep my eyes open because it was so hot. All week it has been getting more and more humid, and because it's dry season the sand is blocking the sun so the air is just gloomy and sticky. Luckily, the professor invited us all to have a drink (and in traditional Ghanaian fashion she paid for everything). I can tell the class is going to get more depressing though because we saw shackles made for toddlers, which is pretty off putting.

A brighter part of my day included going to Pizza Inn (some sort of bizarre franchise associated with Creamy Inn and Chicken Inn) where they have Terrific Tuesdays. My friend and I were able to get two large pizzas for the price of one, and proceded to eat both of them, which while delicious merely meant I was uncomfortably full the rest of the day.

My second class of the day (I am very spoiled and usually only have one class a day) was Documenting the African City and surprisingly more people signed up so instead of 3 there are 6, which is good news because it means we don't each have to shoot our own documentary ( I can barely operate the camera and have already dropped the battery several times). We spent most of the class outside doing interviews... and getting to be the camera man and the gaffer, which was a lot more stressful than I anticipated. Watching the footage was pretty fun, though I can tell the class is going to get more and more difficult as the semester wears on. But the class just seems like too good of an opportunity to pass up, and who knows I might be a closeted Michael Moore.

I hope I can get some more pictures up soon, I am really lazy and rarely bring my camera anywhere but I did get some cute pictures when we were at the local market... hopefully they will somehow make it on here in a more organized way than the first ones.

Just wanted to add some pictures/make it look like I have written a bit more. This is the view from down the street, the sun always looks this hazy because during this time of year the wind blows sand all the way from the Sahara. The second one is from the Kwame Nkrouma Memorial and the last one is the view from the balcony outside my room (we actually have two!)

So I'm not one for writing blogs or doing anything of such nature, but I'm hoping it will beat writing repeat emails. And there is so much to talk about here that emails almost seem too long. Living in Ghana has been much more initially relaxing then I would have ever expected, I have felt less overwhelmed living here than I ever have in New York, though I can't figure out why. The weather probably has a lot to do with it, the sun is so hot but so calming. And being in the air conditioned houses feels fabulous. It's hard starting a blog two weeks into my stay here as there is so much to explain. We've just begun our four month stay here but already it feels like we've lived here forever.

Our first week was just orientation, every day all day in the sun. But as boring as it was... I feel most of the information was helpful, especially the notes about common customs, such as not offering a gift or pointing at something with your left hand. The dorm situation here is amazing, much better than in New York. Here we have huge rooms and a common area with a high ceiling. Even our bathrooms are huge, though mine has a tendency to leak and the shower curtain just hangs there, keeping absolutely no water from splashing all over the floor. The area where we live is really nice, a quiet suburb of sorts with schools and hotels and a wine shop. And a place called ChurCheese that is eerily reminiscent of Chuckie Cheesies... Everything bears some resemblance to Barbados, the people are just as friendly and prone to waving.

My first week of classes was much less like school than I was expecting... My schedule is as follows

Monday: Nothing!
Tuesday: History of the Atlantic Slave Trade 10:30 to 1:30 and Documenting the African City 3:30 to 6:30
Wednesday: African Dance 8-12:15
Thursday: African Popular Music 11-1:30
Friday: Nothing (again)

So I have more days without class than days with class, which works out fine for me. And so far I have no work or readings, so my week has not even felt like I have been back in school. All my classes are small and the teachers so far seem great...typical school stuff I guess.

I don't want to make this first posting too too long so I'll end by saying we spent the weekend at an amazing little beach town/faux resort called Big Milly's Backyard in Kokrobite. It was only 45 minutes outside of Accra and the tro tro ride cost just 55 peswas. For a weekend of food, sun bathing, and dancing I spent only 22 cedi (including the room!) which is an extrodinary feat coming from somone who spends that much on dinner and hookah for one night in the city.

Finally venturing outside Accra without the restrictions of the NYU program was rather refreshing and we plan on doing it much more often... but for now at least I have a week (well really a mere 3 days) of classes left until my next weekend. Peace.